Getting Lost in Venice

Venice is undoubtedly one of the most photographed places in the world.  And for good reason.  I mean, around every bend is something worth remembering.  But, Venice can be a tricky destination for the traveler who is looking for something a little more....real.  It is the hard thing to explain about Venice, and those who have visited know exactly what I am talking about.  It is so iconic, that when you arrive, it can seem a little like Disney World or Vegas.  Nothing against Disney World or Vegas, but you expect to feel like Venice is a real city, with only a few visitors marveling at what it has to offer.

That, unfortunately, is the opposite of reality.  Venice is only home to about 60,000 people during the year but is home to thousands of visitors a day.  Fifty percent of the local economy is tourism (Steves 36).  The influx of visitors is due mostly to large cruise ships who drop off their patrons for the day, between the hours of ten and four.  This is when Venice is the most crowded, especially in the major touristy areas like San Marco Square and the Grand Canal.  And I hate to say it, but those cruise ship tourists are a different kind of European tourist.  They love to buy the kitchy souvenirs and they travel in large packs following guides holding sticks with flags or Micky Mouse ears.

I may sound like a huge brat right now, but come on!  You go to Venice to experience the romance and the beauty and the mystery.  And this.

And this:

And this:

Now, I am the first to say yes to tours.  They can be cheesy and sometimes boring, but they teach you tons about the place you are visiting.  And isn't that the goal of traveling, to learn about a place unlike your own home and experience the world?  But, in Venice, I would avoid the tour and explore the streets with your traveling partner (or partners), put on some good walking shoes, and bring a camera.

Venice is a relatively small city, and is easily walkable.  It is best experienced when you are lost.  Trust me, getting lost in Venice is an easy thing to do.  The streets twist and turn around canals and it is difficult to decipher what direction you are traveling.  Also, streets will just end in a square, or stop at the water.  But as my pal Rick Steves says, "keep reminding yourself, 'I'm on an island, and I can't get off'". 

So, explore the back alleys and the dark streets of Venice and imagine yourself in the 1500's during Carnivale.  Venice is safe and there is little crime, so walk around at night, talk to the locals, and enjoy the quiet parts of the city.  At night and early in the morning is the best part of the day in Venice.  It is where you get to see the locals setting up shop and gulping down early morning espressos and croissants.  At night, it is where you get to hear the bands in San Marco Square battling for the crowd and watch the older men playing card games.  So, by all means, visit Venice, but stay the night.  Don't visit for just one day, because there is so much to offer from the iconic destination.  It is well worth fighting the crowds and the cheesy souvenir shops to get glimpses of reality in the early morning and late evening.

 

The Details:
Where to Stay:  Stay at the Hotel Flora ($200-250/night if you are willing to spend a little extra.  I stayed here with my family a few years ago and it is in a great location and is tucked away in a small alley covered in ivy and flowers.  It also has a nice breakfast on a terrace full of potted plants and ivy.  This past summer, Travis and I stayed at a place called Hotel Ai Do Mori ($85-150/night).  It was a tiny room, but had an amazing location, just steps from San Marco Square.  Also, it was the best bathroom we had of the whole trip.  It was clean and perfect for our needs.
How Many Days:  2-4 days is best.  You get to see everything you want to see and still relax.
When to Go:  Summer is busy.  I have never been at this time, but I imagine it would be beautiful in spring or early fall.  And much less busy.
Cost:  Be expected to pay more for everything.  Remember, it is an island, so everything must be shipped in.  So, budget accordingly.